THE BASICS OF SUCCESSFUL LAWN CARE

Barbara J. Bromley, Mercer Co. Horticulturist 04

QUESTIONS/DECISIONS

What are the expectations? How perfect a lawn is wanted? Needed?
How much time will be devoted to proper care and maintenance?
Is it worth the expense of doing the work with/without professional assistance?
If a company is hired, what questions should be asked? What information should the company provide?
Will grass grow on the site? What are possible alternatives to a grass lawn?

THE BASICS

Sun vs. Shade: Most turfgrasses need sunny locations. The fine fescues, especially hard fescue, tall fescue, and some varieties of perennial rye and bluegrass tolerate some shade.
Water: Need for and availability of irrigation.
Soil: Grass can be grown in almost any soil, but a well-drained sandy loam enriched with organic matter is ideal. A good sandy loam soil contains about 45% minerals (sand, silt, clay), 5% organic matter, 25% air space, and 25% water. Heavy clay soils and very light sandy soils require amending to best support grasses. The ideal pH (level of acidity) for most grasses is about 6.5.

GRASS TYPES

Grass selection is based on expectations of turf use and turf quality, site conditions, and maintenance (time and expense) requirements. The seed must be adapted to the site. A poor seed choice leads to a poor lawn.

COOL SEASON TURFGRASSES

KENTUCKY BLUEGRASS (Poa praetensis)

PERENNIAL RYEGRASS (Lolium perenne)

FINE FESCUE (Festuca spp.) hard, Chewings, and creeping red types

Creeping red fescue

Chewings fescue

Hard Fescue

TALL FESCUES (Festuca spp.)

SPECIAL USE GRASSES

WARM SEASON

Bermuda, St. Augustine grass, Centipedegrass, Bahia, carpet grass (grown in the South), zoysia, buffalograss

Zoysia:

SEED LABELS

The following information must be included on the manufacturer's/producer's label:

MAINTENANCE

MOWING

Height

Keeping the mower height at 2 1/2 to 3 1/2 inches will leave more leaf blade surface for photosynthesis and food production. Close mowing is a stress that reduces tillering and rhizome production. Higher mowing is especially important in summer and in shady areas. Not recommended to remove more than 1/3 of the blade at each mowing.

Frequency

Mow often enough so that no more than 1/3 of the leaf blade is removed at one time. Scalping, or removal of green leaf tissue down to brown stemmy material, is a serious stress to turf. Keep the mower blade sharp to prevent shredding of leaf tissue.

Pattern

It is helpful to vary the cutting pattern, if possible, every few weeks. Constantly walking over the same path each time leads to soil compaction.

Clipping Removal

It is a good idea to leave the clippings on the lawn if they are not too long. They do not contribute appreciably to thatch build-up. Clippings are high in nitrogen and decompose quickly to put nitrogen and other nutrients back in the soil. A mulching mower recuts the grass as it circles inside the mower housing, so dropped clippings are finer and decompose more quickly.

Collected clippings can be used as a thin mulch in flower or vegetable gardens, if broadleaf weed killers have not been applied. They can be composted with high carbon materials.

WATERING

Timing

The best time of day to water for reduced evaporation and decreased time the blades are wet is from 5:00 to 7:00AM, but the acceptable range is from midnight to about 9:00AM while grass blades are already wet from dew. Because of increased disease potential, the worst times of day to water are late morning (9:00 AM to noon) and late afternoon to early evening (5:00-7:00PM). Water anytime if the lawn is in water stress or if local restrictions regulate hours.

Amount

Lawns need about 1 inch on clay soils to 1 1/2 inches on sandy soils of water per week, rain plus irrigation, to actively grow. Irrigation amount can be measured by placing coffee cans or rain gauges in several locations, checking the time, and turning on the sprinkler. When 1 inch has been collected in most of the cans, check the time again. The elapsed time is how long it takes to apply one inch of water.

Lawn grasses will go dormant when insufficient water is applied and should come out of dormancy when rainfall resumes. Grasses may not recover after periods of extended drought, where drought intolerant grasses are grown, or when proper cultural and/or maintenance practices are not followed, Hard fescue, tall fescue, and some perennial ryes are more tolerant of drought stress than other types.

EDGING

Edging along the sidewalk, driveway, or gardens will maintain an even border, but will open up exposed soil in which weeds will grow. Edge regularly or use a herbicide on the bare soil to prevent weed development.

EQUIPMENT

Mowers: reel, gas-push, gas-self-propelled, electric, riding, mulching
Spreaders: drop-type, cyclone-type, hand held
Edgers: manual blade, electric
Rakes: bamboo, metal tine grass, Cavex dethatching
Rental/For Hire: above equipment plus: aerifiers: hollow-tine/core-type, solid tine/shattercore, spike or pin, slice aerators, water injection systems, dethatchers, verti-groovers, slicer/seeders, lawn vacuums

SOIL TESTS

Necessary to determine soil reaction (pH) and levels of major nutrients (P, K, Mg, and Ca), a soil test should be done at least once when establishing a new lawn or starting care of an established turf, then every 3-5 years. Nitrogen levels are generally not tested. Nitrogen is generally applied in rates varying from 1.0 to 5.0 lb. actual nitrogen per 1000 sq. ft. per year. Rates are dependent on grasses grown, clipping removal, irrigation use and natural rainfall.

Inexpensive testing kits are available at many garden centers. The most complete and accurate tests are done at the Rutgers Soil Lab or at private laboratories. The standard fee charged for the Rutgers soil mailer covers tests for phosphorus, potassium, magnesium, calcium, zinc, boron, copper, manganese, iron, and pH. Tests for texture, organic matter, cation exchange capacity (CEC), soluble salts, inorganic nitrogen, and others are additional fees.

LIME

Limestone (calcium carbonate and magnesium carbonate) is essential for most NJ soils to raise pH or make soil less acidic. Dolomitic (high magnesium) or calcitic types are available. Source of the nutrients calcium and magnesium. Raises pH (soil acidity) in 1/2 point increments to the preferred levels of 6.0 to 6.5 (7 is neutral. Below 7 is acidic. Above 7 is alkaline.)

Total needs may be rototilled into the top 6-8" of soil at establishment (best) or surface applied in increments of 50 lbs./1000 sq. ft. every 6 months until the test needs are met. Liming may be needed about every 2-3 years on sandy type soils and 4-5 years on loam and clay soils.

There are three grades of limestone for lawn use:

ground or pulverized - Texture like flour, so is applied with drop spreader only. Takes about 6 months when surface applied to raise the pH 1/2 point. Reacts more quickly when incorporated prior to seeding or sodding.

pelletized - Ground limestone compressed into little pellets. Reacts in the soil like ground limestone, but easier to spread. Relatively expensive.

granular - Texture like dusty sand. Easier to spread; use drop or cyclone spreader. May take up to 2 years when surface applied to raise the pH 1/2 point.

FERTILIZER

Fertilizers are needed to supply nutrients, especially nitrogen (N), phosphorus (P), and potassium (K). Grasses grown, irrigation, clipping removal, and maintenance determine amount. Phosphorus (P2O5) and potassium (K2O) rates are determined by soil test.

Simply stated, nitrogen gives grass its green color and stimulates blade growth, phosphorus stimulates root development, establishment rate, and energy utilization, and potassium imparts environmental stress tolerance and disease resistance. Most lawn fertilizers are high in nitrogen and contain an analysis such as 10-6-4, 29-3-4, etc. Fall fertilization may have a more even ratio for low maintenance turf (1:1:1 ratio, such as 17-16-18) or N levels of 2 times the K level, (4:1:2 ratio, such as 24-6-12), which improves fall rooting, disease resistance, and winter hardiness.

The numbers on a fertilizer bag refer to the percentage of actual nutrient. For example, 10-6-4 contains 10% actual N, 6% P in the form of phosphoric acid or P2O5, and 4% K in the form of potash or K2O. Sometimes sulfur (S) or iron (Fe) are added and a percentage given. The remainder is an inert carrier such as clay pellets or ground corncobs.

Application rate is based on the N alone. P and K are determined by soil test and crop need. To determine application rate, divide the first number of the fertilizer analysis into 100. This will give the rate of application per 1000 sq. ft. For example, a 20-5-5 is applied at 5 lb./1000 sq. ft. (100¸ 20=5), 10-6-4 is applied at 10 lb./1000 sq. ft. (100¸ 10=10), or 33-4-3 is applied at 3 lb/1000 sq. ft. (100¸ 33=3)

Nitrogen

Nitrogen may be available quickly or release slowly. A fertilizer containing slow-release N (water insoluble or WIN) is generally best for turfgrass. Not only does it make N more slowly available to the roots so there isn't a rapid flush of growth, but also it is less likely to burn grass blades or roots and leach into groundwater. Nitrogen is applied by pounds of actual nitrogen per thousand square feet (lb. actual N/1000 sq. ft.)

Fertilizers are available with organic sources of N, (including Milorganite composted sewage sludge, aged cow manure, and brands that use feather meal, and other organic N). Some synthetics like SCU (sulfur coated urea) are not organic, but release slowly.

Quickly available N (water soluble or WSN) may be desirable for turf establishment or for turf that is in extremely poor condition and needs a fast push in cool, not hot, weather. Ammonium nitrate, ammonium sulfate, and urea are examples.

Timing

Late summer into fall (late August through November) is the most important time for fertilizer applications, because at this time strong roots are developing. Avoid heavy nitrogen applications in spring unless the turf is in extremely poor condition. When N is needed in spring, 2 half-rate applications about 6 weeks apart will assist plant health without stimulating excessive growth. Heavy N applications may stimulate disease development and cause the blades to grow so fast that carbohydrate reserves in the roots are exhausted.

Cool season grasses grow best in spring and fall and less effectively, if at all, in summer. It is not an efficient use of fertilizer to apply it in summer when grasses are already heat stressed and not growing well. Fertilizers should not be applied when the lawn is obviously heat- or drought-stressed in any season.

Rules of Thumb – Fertilization (dates approximate)

Rates per Year

N: 2-5 lb/1000 sq. ft. /year

P2O5: 1 lb/1000 sq. ft./year

K2O: 2-5 lb/1000 sq. ft./year

WEED CONTROL

WEED TYPES: MONOCOTS (grass-type plants) VS. DICOTS (broad-leaved plants)

ANNUAL GRASSES

Ex. crabgrass, goosegrass

These weeds germinate, grow, set seed and die in same year. May be prevented with pre-emergence materials applied before April 23 or when the forsythia is in full bloom. [Balan (benefin), Dacthal (DCPA), pendimethalin, Betasan (bensulide), Ronstar (oxadiazon), TEAM (benefin + trifluralin) and Tupersan (siduron - the only one which can be used on new seedings] are available materials. Corn gluten products, such as WOW, can be used where organic materials are desired.

If crabgrass has already germinated, it can be controlled while small with post-emergence chemicals such as the organic methanearsonates DSMA, AMA, CAMA, or MSMA. Products for professional use include DIMENSION (dithiopyr) and ACCLAIM (fenoxaprop-ethyl).

The best way to keep crabgrass from taking over is to keep the lawn thick and mowed high so there is no light available at the soil surface for the seed to germinate.

PERENNIAL GRASSES

Ex. nimblewill, bentgrass, quackgrass.

These plants live for many years, as do desirable turfgrasses, and can't be controlled without injuring or killing the lawn. They may be dug up to remove roots and rhizomes if entire areas are infested. May be controlled chemically with ROUNDUP or KLEENUP (glyphosate), cacodylic acid, or PARAQUAT while actively growing. May also kill using steam solarization of the soil. This involves wetting the ground, covering the area with heavy weight clear plastic sheeting pinned down at the edges, and waiting 2-6 months for all vegetation under the plastic to be killed by the sun.

SEDGES

Ex. yellow nutsedge.

Sedges are grass-like plants that prefer moist sites, but tolerate drought when established. They grow more rapidly in early summer than surrounding grasses, are lighter green, and have an umbrella-like seed head. Pulling nutsedge leaves the nutlets in the ground to grow into new plants. Repeated pulling may weaken plants enough that they die. Chemically controlled with bentazon (BASAGRAN), halosulfuron (MANAGE), or post-emergence crabgrass controls (methanearsonates such as MSMA, CAMA, etc.).

ANNUAL BROAD-LEAVED PLANTS

Ex. chickweed, lambsquarter, black medic, buckhorn plantain, henbit.

Annuals grow, set seed, and die in the same year. They may be controlled culturally by pulling, by maintaining the proper mowing height, and by establishing a thick healthy turf. These weeds are controlled by some pre-emergence controls such as isoxaben (GALLERY) for winter annuals. They can also be killed using the post-emergence broadleaf chemicals 2,4-D, MCPP (mecoprop), MCPA, and/or dicamba (BANVEL). Also available are products containing triclopyr, which is useful for violet control, and dichlorprop.

Broadleaf weed controls are available alone or in combination, in "weed and feed" products, and in spray or granular materials. They have the capability of severely damaging other landscape and garden plants, especially dogwood and tomato. (Weed killers can't differentiate between what is or isn't called a weed.)

PERENNIAL BROAD-LEAVED PLANTS

Ex. mouseear chickweed, dandelion, mugwort, wild garlic, ground ivy, red sorrel, clover (sometimes not considered a weed), broadleaf plantain, oxalis, thistle.

Perennials are plants that return year after year from the same root system. They are often more difficult to control than annual weeds, so repeat applications of broadleaf weed controls (see Annual Broad-Leaved Plants above) may be necessary. Do not repeat applications of "weed and feed" products. To do so will cause overfertilization. If more than one application of a herbicide is needed, use a liquid spot treatment. Some populations are reduced by pulling, digging to remove as much of the root system as possible, and by good cultural practices.

INSECT CONTROL

SURFACE FEEDERS: CHINCH BUG

These are small nymph and adult insects that suck the juices out of desirable grasses and can be especially bad in dry, hot years. Not found in the shade. Chemical controls are usually applied in early June and late August. May be controlled naturally by a fungus disease (Beauvaria bassaniana) in wet years. Big-eyed bug is a predator.

Populations can be monitored by using a large can with both ends cut out, placed on the margin of good and bad area, and filled with water. After 10 minutes or so, chinch bugs will float to the top.

  IPM Control Strategies: chinch bugs

Biological

 naturally occurring fungus disease Beauvaria bassaniana
predator – big eyed bug, ground beetles
Cultural keep turf irrigated
plant grass cultivars containing endophytes
reduce thatch and fertilize properly
Mechanical/Physical  
Chemical biorational neem, Beauvaria bassaniana (Naturalis-T)
Chemical synthetic acephate, bifenthrin, carbaryl (Sevin), cyfluthrin, deltamethrin, ethoprop, isofenphos, lambda-cyhalothrin, permethrin

SURFACE FEEDERS: SOD WEBWORM

This is larva of the lawn moth, a whitish miller moth with a long snout attracted to porch lights in summer. It flutters out of the lawn when it is mowed. The adult lays eggs in the grass. After hatching larvae build silken nests in the thatch layer or at the crown to hide during the day. They feed on grass stems and blades at night.

May be forced out of hiding by drenching suspect areas with a pyrethrum or soap solution. Using cranberry girdler pheromone in a wing trap set near the ground also monitors populations.

  IPM Control Strategies: sod webworm

Biological

 Use perennial rye and fescues containing endophytes
parasitic wasps and flies, predators such as ground beetles, rove beetles, ants, and several bird species
Cultural irrigate during dry periods, maintain proper turf fertility
Mechanical/Physical birds feeding on the lawn
Chemical – Apply in late afternoon or evening, do not water or mow area for 1-3 days.

 synthetics: carbaryl (Sevin), cyfluthrin, isofenphos, lambda-cyhalothrin, trichlorfon, spinosad, pyrethrin,
biorationals: against young larvae: Bacillus thuringiensis (Dipel, Thuricide,) and neem. Against older larvae: Beauvaria bassaniana, halofenozide (Mach 2, GrubEx), spinosad, beneficial nematodes such as Steinernema carpocapsae

 

ROOT FEEDERS: WHITE GRUB COMPLEX:

This group includes the larvae of chafer beetles, such as Japanese beetle, June beetle, Oriental beetle, Asiatic garden beetle, and masked and rose chafer. They are root feeders, sometimes destroying grass roots so badly that the lawn can be rolled up like a carpet. Larvae are C-shaped, mostly white with black features, and are differentiated by the rastral pattern of hairs on their lower abdomens.

Japanese beetle adults are attracted to the floral lure and pheromone sex attractant in commercially sold beetle traps. They should not be used on home grounds (unless large numbers of traps are placed on the property) because they attract beetles from some distance away which will lay eggs in the turf before they are trapped. These traps can be used commercially for monitoring populations.

Birds, skunks, and crows feeding on turf indicate high grub populations. The best way to tell is by cutting out a 12" section of grass (in early August when grubs are small), lifting it, and counting grubs.. Three to six per square foot is the tolerable limit. Any more will result in serious damage.

  IPM Control Strategies: White grubs

Biological

 Paenibacillus popillae (Milky spore disease) - supresses Japanese beetle grub populations, but no others
Scoliid wasps, lightning bug larvae, and soldier beetles are predators
Beneficial nematodes (Steinernema glaseri, Heterorhabditis bacteriophora, H megidis) give good control of Japanese beetle grubs in warm, moist soil, but are short-lived.
Beauvaria bassiana (Naturalis-T)- an entomopathogenic fungus

Cultural

 Do not grow plants that attract Japanese and other beetles.
Maintain virgorous turf by proper fertiliztion and mowing
Grow deep-rooted grasses such as turf-type tall fescue.
Do not irrigate turf in July – beetles are attracted to moist soil for egg laying.
Mechanical/Physical ‘Spikes of Death’ lawn aerator sandals
Birds, skunks, and moles offer some control, but rip up the turf in their quest
Chemical (Remove thatch first. Apply to moist soil and water in with ˝" water) Apply mid-August to mid Sept. or March/April: trichlorfon (Dylox), carbaryl (Sevin)

Apply mid-Apr to mid-Aug (best – June 1 to July 1): halofenozide (Mach 2, Grub-ex), imidacloprid (Merit)

DISEASE CONTROL

Disease can be caused by bacteria, fungi, and viruses. Fungi cause most diseases in turf. There are chemicals available for control, but on the home grounds, the effects of most diseases can be diminished by cultural means, such as watering and fertilizing correctly, removing thatch, maintaining pH between 6.0 and 6.5, mowing at the proper height, and using disease resistant varieties of grasses. There are fungicides available.

PROBLEM SOLVING

There are other causes of lawn damage. The easiest way to control problems is by knowing about them, and using that knowledge to prevent their occurrence.

THATCH

Thatch is a buildup of dead roots and stems. Grass clippings do not contribute appreciably to thatch build-up. Overfertilizing, growing grasses that tend to produce thatch (such as zoysia, bluegrass and creeping red fescue), and using fungicides will contribute to thatch. A layer up to 1/2" thick between the crown of the plants and the soil is acceptable. Any layer over 1/2 inch should be removed with a dethatching machine or a vertigroover. The ideal time is late August or early September, although other times will work, too. Biological thatch digesters can reduce thatch layers, but testing of products available has yielded spotty results.

SOIL COMPACTION

Compacted soil has had the air and water spaces between soil particles eliminated, so that roots have a hard time growing. Rain on heavy soil over the years, pedestrian traffic, and lack of organic matter all contribute to the problem. To alleviate the problem, rent a core aerator which removes 3"+ long cores of soil from the compacted area. (Turf professionals also use Verti-Drains and other heavy duty aerifiers that can aerify 8" deep or more and fracture hardpans.) Be sure the soil is moist before attempting aeration, because dry compacted soil is similar to brick or concrete.

Encouraging earthworms in the soil helps relieve soil compaction. Using organic fertilizers, topdressing with thin layers of sifted compost, reducing pesticide use, and leaving grass clippings on the lawn will also contribute to an increase in earthworm populations. Earthworms aerate soil by coming to the surface to get organic matter, then carrying it back down through their tunnels.

ANIMAL PROBLEMS

The presence of moles tunneling, birds pecking holes, and skunks ripping up the lawn usually indicates an available food source, probably insects such as sod webworms, cutworms, and grubs. These animals can be considered a natural control. If that is not acceptable, chemical controls can be used to get rid of the insects or live traps may catch the animal.

To keep dogs off your lawn, there are repellents available. Sometimes a squirt of water from the garden hose at the offending dog may also prevent its return.

CHEMICAL MISUSE READ THE LABEL! THE LABEL IS THE LAW!

Never misuse any lawn chemical. By law every chemical has all necessary use information use on its label. Some mistakes include:

Improper chemical: Each chemical has a purpose and a target. If the wrong chemical is used, phytotoxicity or plant damage may occur. Using the wrong chemical may also be a threat to the environment.

Ex. Using most pre-emergence crabgrass controls and broadleaf weed killers on newly seeded grass will kill the germinating and/or seedling grass. Their use will also affect when grasses can be seeded after their application.

Improper timing: Most chemicals have a period of time when they are most likely to be effective. Using a chemical when it will not work, such as an insect control when the damage is seen, but the insect is no longer present or controllable, is an example. Grub damage from spring feeding may show up in June, but that is not an effective time to apply most controls. Applying chemicals when the lawn is in heat or drought stress may cause damage unrelated to the insect or disease.

Improperly calibrated equipment: Make sure spreaders and sprayers work properly. Applying fertilizers or pest controls at the wrong rate because your equipment is poorly calibrated may cause damage.

Improper application: Overlaps, misses, and spills can cause interesting patterns of damage or death of entire lawn areas.

FAULTY OR IMPROPERLY MAINTAINED EQUIPMENT

Dull mower blades, oil leaks, and unevenly set wheel height on the mower are three common examples of poorly maintained or faulty equipment.

WEATHER STRESSES

Extended drought, excess rain, ice cover, heat stress, sudden high or low temperature fluctuations, and hail can cause damage to lawns.

SURFACE AND SUB-SURFACE DEBRIS

Buried blocks of concrete, stone, bricks, tree stumps and other construction debris are some of the subsurface obstructions that block root growth or create dry pockets in lawns. Piles of firewood left for more than a few days, layers of fallen leaves in autumn, a pool cover left on the lawn in June sun, or a storm window laid in the sun while cleaning windows are all innocent everyday occurrences that can cause damage to lawns.

References

Carr, Anna et al, 1991, Chemical-Free Yard & Garden.Emmaus, PA: Rodale Press.
Hanson and Juska, (Eds.) 1969, Turfgrass Science. Madison, WI: Amer. Society of Agronomy, Inc.,
Hill, Lewis and Nancy,  1995, Rodale's Successful Organic Gardening Lawns and Groundcovers. Emmaus, PA: Rodale Press.
Leslie, Anne R. (Ed), 1994, Handbook of Integrated Pest Management for Turf and Ornamentals. Lewis Publishers.
Mace, Alice (Ed.)  1985, Ortho Books All About Lawns. Chevron Chemical Co.
Madison, J. H. 1971, Practical Turfgrass Management. Boston: PWS Publishers.
Schultz, Warren, 1989, The Chemical-Free Lawn. Emmaus, PA: Rodale Press.
Tashiro, Haruo, 1987, Turfgrass Insects of the United States and Canada. Ithaca, NY: Cornell Univ. Press

Rutgers Cooperative Extension Turf-related Fact Sheets:

FS102 Your Lawn and Its Care FS684 Turf Seed Selection for Home Lawns
FS104 Steps to an Instant Lawn FS738 New Jersey Seed Std. for Sod Certification
FS108 Renovating Your Lawn FS740 Thatch Management in Turf
FS119 Common Weeds Around the Home FS766 Lawn Fertilizer Spreader Calibration
FS184 Chemical Control of Turfgrass Diseases FS797 Soil Testing for Home Lawns and Garden
FS210 Japanese Beetle FS814 Managing Diseases of Landscape Turf
FS389 Min. Waste Disposal: Grass Clippings FS829 How to Protect Water Quality and Have a Beautiful Lawn
FS426 Moss in Lawns FS839 How to Calculate the Amount of Fertilizer Needed for Your Lawn
FS555 Best Manage. Prac. for Watering Lawns FS921 Conserving Water on Home Lawns and Landscapes in New Jersey
FS584 Seeding Your Lawn FS1007 Sod Webworms
FS633 Fertilizing the Home Lawn FS1008 Hairy Chinch Bug
FS635 Managing Soil pH for Turfgrasses FS1009 White Grubs
FS735 Nutrient Sources for Growing Plants by the Organic Method  

 

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